Miss Muslin

The Good ,The Bad and The Ugly.

2011-09-13T19:51:00.000-07:00

Hello All,

What a great summer. Finally I have summoned enough courage to get back to blogging. I have a taken a nice break from just about everything. Now I need a kick to get back into gear.

The Ugly
I am posting this picture of my broken toe, traumatic joint fracture, because this is the reason I have been locked in the Sewing Room Tower, with NO exercise and virtually no movement. Sewing wise I have been productive.
Endorphins and calories spent = 0
Cranky factor =10+++

The Bad
One major wadder when I was locked in the Sewing Tower. Vogue 1252. I had high hopes for this beauty, but the ruching, wrapping, gathering, tucking, draping was all a dither. Great directions, not Vogue's fault, not for me.

The Good

It seemed I was locked in the Tower on the most sunniest of days. One two day period, I went a little crazy with Vogue 1250, adding sleeves and the like. Four dresses. Matte jersey, ITY jersey, Missoni Crush, I used them all.

On another day, below, Burda 07-2011-110 in a black cotton brocade.

Most recently, below, a frankenpattern of Simplicity 2648 bodice and a a pleated skirt for D1 to wear to school. Emil Rutenberg cotton satin. Butter fabric.

I am happy to be back. Excited for fall.

Excited to see what you are all making for the new season, and to my friends in the southern hemisphere, what you will be making for spring.

Regards,
Joanne M

Skirts

2011-07-13T16:36:00.000-07:00

Please excuse the quality of these pictures.....

Prada Spring 2011 featured many stripes. Stripe fabric of this nature is impossible to find. After an exhaustive search, I pieced together many strips of cotton sateen using the trusty serger.

Prada Skirt in Pink/Orange/Black

Prada Skirt in Teal/Black/Chocolate

Jil Sander Spring 2011 also featured skirts with a ruffle at the top. This is a lovely green/ black/ gold brocade. This was fun to construct, but the weight of the ruffle at the top presented some drag issues....

I am taking a break from blogging until September. Enjoy the remainder of the summer, and I will reconnect again then.

Thank you for all your kind comments, take care all.

Navy Sheath Dress

2011-06-19T14:25:00.000-07:00

Thank you for all the kind comments about the graduation dress. It has had much wear!

I joined the Dress Sewalong hosted by Faye. She kindly extended the deadline for today. Yes- I finished hand stitching an hour ago.......

INSPIRATION A navy Milly dress

PATTERN: Simplicity Amazing Fit. Two muslins of bodice, not hard to do, and the fit was really good. This is a GREAT pattern.

FABRIC: A navy raffia from EOS. It has the feel of a thicker linen but with a sheen of silk. An intriguing fabric.

My ties had to have 4 rows of topstitching like the Milly ties.

LINING: I chose a bemberg lining for the bodice, and a silk organza for the skirt to give it some body and prevent creasing. This turned out to be a good idea.
(Please excuse the toes)

CONCLUSION: I think this might be my favorite sheath dress pattern.
The navy was true, the fabric was interesting to work with, and maybe the weather will warm up and the skies dry up....... soon.....

Highly recommended!

Graduation Dress

2011-05-15T17:28:00.000-07:00

D1 graduated from University yesterday and I finished up this dress within hours of the ceremony.
I am uber on time with every facet of my life but sewing.
I am always switching, changing and tweaking something last minute.

I was inspired by LindsayT's dress that she made her daughter, for her high school graduation last year.

I have used this pattern several times for myself, Burda 3477, but making for another allows for such perfect fit experience. Two muslins and several changes ensured a close fit. I highly recommend this pattern if still available, it allows for much tweaking.

Ruffle basted to neck before final sewing.

Here she is below, with a cool 48 degrees cold snap, cap and gown in hand.
She has four more years of study ahead, so more dresses to come.

Happy Graduation my firstborn. You have worked hard and more work ahead.

Love,
Mum.

Hold Me Back

2011-05-04T15:41:00.000-07:00

When I find a great new pattern, I am sometimes tempted to overindulge.
Like Vogue 1194

This pattern is great.

I have made it up in an abstract jersey

No muslin.

Inches off the length.

Raised the V with no problem.

I also just finished it in a black matte jersey.

I am thinking of making a third..... No wait..... ENOUGH.

:)

Cranky Seamstress

2011-04-19T18:11:00.000-07:00

I usually don't post midway through a project, but this may not make it to completion, so, here is Vogue 1207.

A darling dress for D1. The reviews are not very convincing, so maybe I should have listened......

I did make a muslin for the bodice, but the fabric chosen is a silk georgette that is beautful but F-U-S-S-Y. The pattern did suggest a georgette, so I AM following the rules......

I raised the back V by two inches, and while I was worried how low it might appear, I SHOULD have been worried about how puckery the V is (see below)........arrgghhh

I will wait until D1 comes home this weekend and finish this dress. I am determined to make it work. I love the fabric and the cute style, but many pieces, fickle fabric,cranky seamstress.........

Jil Sander Copy

2011-04-02T17:29:00.000-07:00

I love the Jil Sander spring 2011 line. The beautiful kelly greens, hot pinks and bright tangerines, all solid and fairly clean lines. Oh, and the ruffles. BIG ruffles. Without looking too dangerously prom.

I had some orange sherbet cotton sateen in my stash. Trying to find a solid kelly green, tangerine or hot pink is hard. Prints abound. Sometimes you have something in your stash.

I copied my go-to skirt muslin. I did not line the skirt, but finished edges and added an interfaced waistband facing (never do I add facings, I prefer to line) to stabilize the weight of the ruffle. I think lining would make the skirt drag down, and I did not need any added weight. The ruffle is folded and added between facing and skirt.It has great drape factor.

Sateen is the way to go. Enough shine, enough crispness and I LOVE the skirt. I plan on wearing it with a white blouse or a bright pink very plain T. Heck I would even wear a black blouse, who cares if it looks Halloweeny! I have some black sateen, so I am planning on making a black skirt with a different colored ruffle.

Don't you love shopping your stash????

Triplets

2011-02-19T06:48:00.000-08:00

Thank you for all your kind comments regarding the sheath dress. It is so rewarding to make something for a fraction of the price, for a happy customer!

McCalls 5977. "One easy pattern, 4 great looks." I would argue that ruffle placement according to your own whim, could result in "multiple great looks." My ruffles don't always look like the pattern suggests, but we are still happy.

These tops were made out of silk charmeuse that I picked up in NYC last August. They are perfect transition pieces for under cardigans. Although not machine washable, I might test the fabric and see if I can hand wash. Now my girls want one each, in cotton voile, so this pattern will be used again.....

Some tips:

1. These ruffles, especially the silver, are huge. I am fine with it. I wear a ton of tanks with cardigans, so I am fine with this big bling look. Be sure you like the ruffle placement.
With a strong wind, this ruffle could obstruct your vision.

2. Make a muslin. No zipper means a bigggggg fit. I made changes to the top so it could fit over the head without a zipper and remain fitted. A challenge.

3. I made my own silk bias tape for the armholes and neck. I totally disregarded their directions for facings. I hate facings, but the bias strips worked beautifully.

4. I like this pattern. These tops can be $80 at Banana Republic. These are great layering pieces.

Dress Twin

2011-02-13T07:36:00.000-08:00

Well, when you see a sheath dress for well over $100 at your daughter's favorite store, you always leave mumbling, "I can make that."
I already had this nylon rosette tulle in my stash. What are the chances?

I used the tried and true Burda 3477. After 2 muslins, and several fittings we now have a muslin to use for future dresses. This dress had to be more fitted ~~tighter~~ than the original dress.

I lined it with bemberg, 14 inch zipper , and have yet to complete the hem. Not a difficult pattern , but a great basic sheath with princess seams that allows for a great fit.

Worth it!

Burda Camel Jacket

2011-01-21T15:04:00.000-08:00

I was sidetracked on my way to making the vintage Givenchy dress.

Burda Style 8/2010/103
"Equally chic when worn belted or open"
On Matilda the Mannequin this looks very "robe-ish".
Please do tell how I can access the line drawings now that Burda has completely boggled my organizational skills?

Fabric 100% cashmere in a darker camel color. It feels like a low pile velour. I was afraid to iron it.It is really lovely. And it was on BIG sale.
Lining Bemberg lining is an almost exact color. No excitement here.

Directions I checked them and they seemed very fine. I did not muslin, but cut my usual 38. It seemed to come together easily. It was rated 3 dots, but I think 2 1/2 might have been honest. That NEVER happens with Burda.I omitted the sleeve tabs and just placed pocket tabs. This fabric is thin, so deep pockets with junk in them would add to the robe feel and drag down the coat.

Conclusion I was happy with how this turned out. It is not a warm thick coat but a spring/fall coat in a great classic color. I would recommend it.

Now back to the vintage Givenchy.....

From Mental to Black Swan

2011-01-09T09:58:00.000-08:00

After many alterations and the insertion of a waistband, I have a cute wool trench. She is very fitted. No layers under this. But I can wear it during the warmer seasons.

I block fused the entire piece of fabric. I have been converted to block fusing. No more straggly pieces that slide around the cutting table and iron up several inches short of the fabric piece.

I chose covered buttons for a clean look. I did not want any buttons to upstage the fabric. Please tell me if you have good luck with covered buttons or what brand you recommend. I broke several just trying to cover them, and then sewing them, each time the metal hook would break. They seem flimsy.

I did not line the coat, the block fusing really provided a sturdy fabric, but finished the seams with a hong kong seam finish. When the weather warms up I look forward to wearing this little number.

I am happy with this Black Swan, sometimes we can be such harsh critics of our own work.......anyone agree?

Sanity Sewing

2010-12-30T13:42:00.000-08:00

Sometimes when a project is driving me mental, such as this one:

I need to either step out of the sewing room, or chuck the current unfinished project to the side and start a new, mindless, instantly gratifying piece of work.

I was admiring this Eileen Fisher skirt. It is over $150, side zipper, polyester taffeta, and very cute. I snooped around, tried it on, cocked my head, walked out of the store and muttered to myself, very arrogantly, "I can make that". Snap.

So, I looked for "stash scraps" and found duchesse satin for the body, silk organza for one of the ruffles, washed silk for another ruffle,enough duchesse satin for the last ruffle and baby blue bemberg lining. All from the stash, costing zero dollars.

It is cute and I plan on wearing it with a blue denim shirt, black tights and riding boots.

Now I have to get back to the project that led me to this one.....

Progress and Thinking

2010-12-28T16:54:00.000-08:00

From behind:
She looks decent from behind.
The princess seams made fitting a dream.

From the front:
She needs serious pressing to eliminate the house coat look. I may even insert a waist band. I have to look at her for another 24 hours so I can figure out how to make this duckling into a swan.

She must be finished and out of the sewing room by the 31st. Vintage starts and I want Miss Oscar out of the sewing room.

Vintage Pattern Contender

2010-12-24T11:27:00.000-08:00

All,

I think this will be my vintage pattern winner-the short version. Hubert de Givenchy (born February 1927), founded The House of Givenchy 1952. He developed sewing patterns for Vogue, McCalls, Spadea and was well known for designing dresses for Audrey Hepburn. No fabric yet, and it won't be warm enough to wear it for some time.....

A very Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone, and a healthy 2011. Thank you for all your comments and visits. I look forward to your blogs and sewing wisdom in 2011.

JoanneM

A New Home

2010-12-22T18:10:00.000-08:00

Readers,

I think you should visit Vintage Sewalong of 2011
so you can see the new home of the Vintage Sewalong of 2011.

The directions to join should be clear. This will give us a new home dedicated to our vintage sewing.

I hope you will consider joining. Some people join the gym in January, some go to the sewing room.

I am off to interview vintage pattern contenders. I own a small village of them.......

JoanneM

The Great Vintage Sewalong

2010-12-21T15:14:00.000-08:00

Grab your button and attach it to your blog!
Thank you Meg- job well done!

An Invitation

2010-12-19T10:22:00.000-08:00

You Are Invited

To Join

The Great Vintage Sewalong

Timeline

January 2011

*post vintage pattern choice
*share your muslin and fabric choice

February

*share construction adventures
*complete project and post final pictures of garment

Rules

* um, none.
*participate and have fun........

RSVP

*Indicate your interest around/by December 31st

Inspired by Many

2010-12-13T14:39:00.000-08:00

Thank you for all your comments on the Grrrrr Jacket. One needs to go from Fur to a Non Fur project, as I now understand.

My next project is inspired by Oscar de la Renta pre fall 2011. A year from now??

I love the trench look, the bodice and the slightly gathered waist. I have the perfect fabric for this project-barely enough.

I started by Frankenpatterning ( I have always loved that term) McCalls 5060, inspired by Meg from LindsayT. It is an OOP pattern with a great princess seam bodice. I cut the pattern just above the waistline, and used model A. I found this OOP pattern from Ecrater. Both Etsy and Ecrater are treasure chests. I will be using this McCalls pattern again in the spring. It is well drafted. Thanks Meg!

The bodice came from McCalls, and the skirt part, could really come from anywhere but I chose Vogue 1961:

The fabric I have is a lovely wool blend, Ellen Tracy with swirls all over it. It really is beautiful.

I block fused the entire piece of fabric with pro weft fusible . This is my first experience with block fusing and I am hooked!!! Never again will I piddle around with interfacing pieces. Hurrah!

This pattern, so far is a dream. I did not make a muslin, but followed LindsayT's advice with shoulder and her review. I did make some alterations as I went along. Mainly reducing the shoulders, tightening the waist. I want it to be a fitted coat.

She looks similar to ODR. But I will need to get smart here. I barely have enough fabric to complete the skirt. It will not be as full as I want, I will need to interline with organza before I line if I want some poof! And I want poof.......

So far, here she is.

Grrrrrr

2010-12-10T20:38:00.000-08:00

I think I may have exhausted my interest in faux animal fur!

This is a low pile pile, silky smooth, faux leopard fur purchased about a year ago. It was too thin for any warmth, so I lined it with a quilted scramble knit (the equivalent of a knit double cloth, only it is stretchy and a little warm). Really, it was more for stability than for any true warmth.

The pattern is a 1962 vintage swing coat I purchased from Etsy some months back. My sewing room became Fur-ville, fur everywhere....... My machine could use a vacuum.....

A fun project, heavy on the leopard look...and I did have leftovers....that will be the next post....

Another Burda Jacket

2010-12-03T20:48:00.000-08:00

It has been forever since I posted last. I have been sewing....... nothing too "post worthy".

This is BWOF 11/2007/103.

I love BWOF jacket construction. I don't love trying to find a line drawing on the Russian website.

I am sure I am not alone!

This is a multi color wool boucle suiting purchased last season. It is really pretty and has texture without too much bulk. I was drawn to the bright colors and nubby texture.

The trim is a black faux fur leftover from an earlier project.

BWOF jackets are easy to understand once you have encountered several. They tend to duplicate their patterns somewhat. I am not sure I will continue my subscription as they are beginning to look very similar.

Nevertheless, I highly recommend their jacket construction!

Thank you and a Pea Coat

2010-10-10T16:48:00.000-07:00

Thank you for all your wonderful comments on the lace dress. It was a labor of love and I appreciate your visits.

   Finally.
   Nick's pea coat. BWOF 10/2006/129.
   Do you have any idea how hard it is to find a men's pea coat pattern?
   They don't exist.

I tracked this pattern down through Crisford on Pattern review. This wonderful woman answered my questions through our Flickr account, sent me the pattern, I traced it, sent it back and when I had some questions she obliged with grace. Please look at her review, I followed it verbatim and I was not disappointed. Thank you Crisford!

I used a 100% black felted wool coating from my stash. I cut a muslin and made some changes. This coat is a tad big. S2 is not yet 17 and I want this to last. He also tried it on with a tank underneath-hence no layers. It will be worn with layers.

I top stitched the seams and found great patchwork buttons at Hancocks.

The pockets are a must.

I stitched the underarm lining to the sleeve to prevent any rips when putting the jacket on in a hurry.

-a tip from Crisford.

The lining is an Italian cotton windowpane shirting in baby blue.

It passed the "manly" test.

He gave me the green light to use baby blue.

Next weekend we drive to visit S1 in college, I will show him the pictures of his younger brother's jacket and maybe...............this will not be my last pea coat.........

NYC Sewing !!!

2010-09-18T19:34:00.000-07:00

Three weeks ago I attended Sitandsew in NYC with Susan Khalje and Kenneth King.

In my estimation, this experience is the equivalent to Winning the Lottery.

Once again I worked with Lace Guipure. A sheath dress consisting of four layers of construction with the final layer of guipure.

I will never get sick of working with guipure.

The black 100% cotton lace guipure was from Lace Star. The layer directly underneath was a nude/beige silk charmeuse, hand stitched to a cotton muslin for stability. Under that was the black silk charmeuse lining.

The lace edging at the bottom of the dress is delightful.

I hope you can see the hem in this picture.

The zipper is completely attached by hand and is flawlessly positioned so that the fabric looks seamless.

The armhole and neck binding are silk charmeuse strips hand stitched.

   This dress is heavy!

   Four layers attached by hand stitching and even rows.

I found the process to be soothing and very methodical, back and forth, back and forth.

   Working with these professional, talented and witty educators was a dream.


   Next up, my son's pea coat! Happy September!!!

2010-08-23T18:49:00.000-07:00

My Summer

No sewing for a month, but some wonderful memories.

London

The Victoria and Albert- The Grace Kelly Exhibit

London Mail

London Bridge

The girls and I at Kensington Palace

A London taxi -much shrieking after we took this picture

Liberty of London- where I purchased only 1 meter of fabric the entire trip.

Good girl Joanne.

The girls at Buckingham Palace

Legally Blonde at The Savoy Theater

Ireland

Irish Mail

Leprechaun Crossing at The Ring of Kerry

Many of these cute churches and castles on our road trip through severe bends, and very skinny, Irish roads

Did I mention severe bends, skinny roads and everyone exceeds 120 km per hour?

Killarney

A Mercy Convent several hundred years old. I was educated by Mercy nuns in Sydney.

For the record, they never showed any mercy.

But I loved them.

Trinity College Dublin

   Meeting and traveling with my 73 year old mother through Ireland

   What a wonderful memory.......


   See you in September!

Inspired by the First Lady

2010-07-26T15:45:00.000-07:00

I am intrigued by Azzedine Alaia's dresses that Mrs Obama wears. They are lovely and they are always described as "knit". That intrigues me further. I wondered how this could be so, as I have never seen any novelty knits that look anything like these dresses she wears.

This double sided matelasse knit in black I found at emmaonesock. Stretch in both directions, and with some weight. I copied the top from BWOF 2-2009-118. Originally I made this pattern last year. It was a horror to read, and I had several wadders before eventually constructing it in my head and sewing it "my way". That can be equally as frustrating, because then I am left feeling, why can't I follow the directions like everyone else?????

For the bottom of the skirt I simply gathered it and then lined it with silk organza to give it some body.
Organza and knit= tight fit over the head, and because I did not want to insert a zipper into a knit, I had to make sure the fit was perfect over the head but still had shape when on. I liked how it turned out. It is fun, I need to adjust hem, and I have no clue how to wash-other than carefully!

The second item, just using the top version of the same pattern, and a puckered stretch knit, turned out cute and it is easy to wash and wear.

A close up of the fabric.

My 22 year old Elna serger almost had me in tears trying to sew these fabrics. Threading each time was an additional nightmare. I have decided to research Babylock sergers, take advantage of the free finance plan and am looking at the Enlighten or Imagine. I am done cursing at the machine. I need sanity while sewing! If you know anything about either of these please comment.

I will not be blogging until September. I am leaving the country here for a few weeks, and wish you all a wonderful end of the summer, and to my southern hemisphere friends, happy soon -to- be- spring!

Cocktail Dress

2010-07-06T13:40:00.001-07:00

I have made this pattern before and this dress is lovely in the silk taffeta in the issue BURDA 11-2007-125 as a "cocktail dress" but my version is a silk cotton from the stash, light and airy, but in need of some structure.

My original goal was to line it with china silk and then interline it with silk organza, but it is hot and the last thing I need is a lightweight dress made heavier than it needs to be. So- I stopped at the silk organza for crispness and used it as a lining AND an interlining.

Are there any rules for this concept? Did I commit a couture no no? Should have I then lined it with china silk? 3 layers seemed so cumbersome, but I really wanted it to have some body, and the silk organza seemed to fit the bill for lining and structure. I cut it out as one, and sewed it as one and then hand stitched the hem and seams.

The result is a lightweight dress, with some body and lovely fabric. Once again I had to raise the v neck by 2 inches. This is by far my favorite BWOF issue. My copy looks raggedy and well loved. I think this cocktail dress would be lovely in a black silk taffeta.....

It is hotter than heck here in the midwest. Love this humidity!

TAGGED

2010-06-28T04:41:00.000-07:00

Gail from my humble hometown overlooking the most lovely harbor in the world, has tagged me. I enjoy reading these tidbits about sewists, as at our wonderful ages and stages in life, we have accomplished so much. In the spirit of THE FIRST AUSTRALIAN female Prime Minister, I am going to follow along, and then tag a few more sewists.

Which pattern/vintage style have you been thinking about lately?

This lovely below. McCalls 5586 copyright 1960. I have had my eye on it for sometime and it was expensive, so I kept doing google searches and found it this week on Etsy, for much less than the site where I had coveted it. Happy Dance. Would you look at that neckline on the black one???? I am going to make it up in classic black linen. I love some unique vintage patterns, but am not a vintage fabric lover. This pattern is coming home to be with me !

What is the one place you want to visit you've never been before?

That's a tough one. I have travelled extensively throughout my life, and the wishlist of visits never ends. Right now I am going to say Ireland, as in August, I will meet my Australian born Irish mother in Dublin with my 2 daughters.
I'm gonna need a vacation after my vacation......

How do you relax?

When I turned 30, (several months back) I started to run at the urging of a dear friend. Realizing I was not going to die after the first few runs, I became hooked. I typically run 4 10 mile or Half M's races a year, but this summer I am recovering from surgery so my relaxation is sewing, reading and trying to be patient.....

What is your favorite holiday/vacation?

Hong Kong as a child, New Zealand where I met my husband, returning home to Sydney with my children, Italy with my mother and daughter, and South Africa at the height of Apartheid in the 1970's where as a teenager, I could not believe my eyes.......

What is/are your sewing skills you want to learn/try out?

* I would like to learn how to interpret/translate/engineer a Japanese pattern from Pattern Magic . I own these delightful books but I cannot wrap my head around the patterns! Arrgghh!
* SMOCKING-if I can get my mother to stay for an extended time!

Can you knit? Crochet? Other crafting talents?

I can knit better than I can sew, but the wrists can no longer take it. I can crochet, but I don't love it.

What garment/accessory do you wear most often?

Jewelry. Semi precious stones with color. I love a colored bauble.

How much time do you spend reading blogs(per day/per week)?

Lately-too bloody much.
BUT in my defense- how else would I be able to improve my skills, battle sewing issues without the help of my Master Sewists?

Your Motto/Mantra?

What is your Plan B?

I would like to tag MANY sewists. But I have spent TOO much time on this computer this morning and I need to get out!
I know some things about these ladies, but maybe not answers to the above questions, so here goes:

Claudine from http://couturedetails.blogspot.com/ -I could stare at her garments for hours-in a good way Claudine!

Connie from http://couturesmith.com/ -she makes lovely dresses, her bio is a hoot and I enjoy her blog

Meg from http://www.lindsaytsews.com/ -because this time I get to ask HER the QUESTIONS!!!!

THANK YOU

2010-06-23T04:28:00.001-07:00

THANK YOU!!!!!

To everyone. Your thoughts and insights were truly valuable.

This vintage pattern below, for $5 is on its way from Etsy. I am thinking Mr Suave in the middle will be the project. A little shorter perhaps and maybe I might switch pockets to internal side pockets....we shall see, but the pattern is PERFECT for what I need. I will cut a muslin when it arrives and work slowly...after all, I have several months!

Thank you again. I will update you on my progress.

HELP WITH A PATTERN

2010-06-22T05:11:00.000-07:00

Dear Readers,

My 16 1/2 year old son has asked if I would make him a pea coat for the winter. This is miraculous on many levels, mainly two as of right now.

1. He gave me some lead time of several months
2. He never asks me to sew anything for him, other than the muslin toga I wrapped and pinned around his torso for Halloween last year. Hardly a sewing feat.

Yesterday I thought I would start the search for a pattern. Is anyone out there astounded at the lack of men's patterns? More specifically a traditional pea coat? Have I had my head in the sand with respect to men's sewing patterns???

If anyone can recommend a pattern, or is willing to send me a pattern, I would trace it, guard it with my life and return it asap.
If anyone has any suggestions I would gladly listen. My BWOF collection only starts December 2008, so I am wondering if I have missed anything prior to this.

While I am more than happy to purchase an American Eagle Outfitters pea coat for my son, I feel that this request should be honored and that as his mother, I know he would truly appreciate this project and its process. The toga project passed as a sewing project last October, but he has figured it out by now.....

Thank you All.

JoanneM

A New Dress

2010-06-21T12:32:00.000-07:00

Readers,

I have loved this dress from the beginning and there have been many pattern reviews. I particularly like it in the dupioni and I chose a gunmetal shantung.

Although an easy to read pattern, I found it be a "funky fitting" dress. I followed the pattern measurements exactly and cut the desired size, only to find the top was very big. BUT I think bigger will work with this pattern, as it does not need to be too fitted if you don't care for that look. I followed the advice of many reviewers and I cut the neckline 2 whole inches higher. I am so glad I did. It had the potential to ruin the fabric if I had followed the directions. A camisole would not have looked decent underneath this pretty.

No lining, and I finished the seams with a clean finish (wide enough seams with the edges turned over and sewn ). The dress is very crunchy and swooshy to wear, but I love the ease with which I can wear this. I plan to throw it on as a sundress, no special occasion. I omitted the pockets like Allie in Hong Kong, I did not see the need to have pockets with such a dressy fabric.

What I thought was "funky fitting" really gave me some fitting latitude. I have seen it made up in a more billowy top, to a more fitted. I am okay without the lining, and usually I line everything. It is a fun pattern, but play around with your fitting comfort level, as I thought it was a little non specific-in a good way.

Copy Cat

2010-06-12T16:25:00.000-07:00

I am not sure if this is legal. Or if the Copy Cat Police will hunt me down, but here goes.

Is anyone ever inspired to "copy" RTW clothing?

Two years ago D1 and I were amazed at the $400 price tag on this gorgeous cascade tulle skirt at J. Frew. Can you read my code? I will refer to this retailer in spy language throughout this post......

So I examined the pictures carefully in the catalogue, and designed the skirt as closely as possible. It was putsy and D1 still says it is one of her favorites. Here she is wearing it. It is similar-do you think?

Along comes another $400 J. Frew skirt and Yoshimi the Flying Squirrel sends me her leftover pink/gray furry fabric in exchange for a May BWOF. I know the name of the magazine has changed, but I am having a hard time readjusting. This fabric was PERFECT for this copy cat exercise. THANK YOU Yoshimi!!!!

So here is the end result. Lined, elastic waist, two easy sides to sew. Thank you to my friend Karen who picked up this lovely metallic silver elastic in NYC. All we could find here was white underwear elastic.....she saved the skirt.

Does anyone else Copy Cat????

Fake Sewing and Real Sewing

2010-05-31T09:24:00.001-07:00

Happy Memorial Weekend!

Sometimes I have to do some "Fake Sewing"(crafty, upholstery, anything quick and easy) when I am in the middle of a project that drives me mental (BWOF or Burdastyle, or whatever the name is right now- 4-2009-116) I have made this before and loved it, so once you slay the dragon, it can be easier the second time around. Maybe. Many buttons, buttonholes, perfect pocket positioning, yikes....

This one is for you Cindy from Color By Number!!

She loves silk dupioni and a good ruffle! I am redoing my bedding to all white. Stark and clean. But I need an accent pillow and refuse to pay $75 for the lovely Ralph Lauren silver/gray pillow. I KNOW I own this color fabric in my stash. Basic pillow, cut the measurements, twist a ruffle on the front, seal the seams with piping. Here it is on the existing/old cream bedding. Easy and a little fiddly, but worth it.

Below is the unfinished project that drove me to Fake Sewing. Burda 4-2009-116. In an ivory silk matka, I love this pattern and the end result, but the directions are Latin. I hope to have this project finished.........later. I do feel energized so back to the sewing room.....some other day....

Enjoy this weather, it is LOVELY here!

Simple Sheath Dress

2010-05-21T14:08:00.000-07:00

I have a vintage sheath dress pattern that I have wanted to sew for some time. I love version C with the wide neck and the two darts on each side. It really made it easy to fit as I didn't make a muslin, but it was okay. I am still here to tell the story. No muslin, no cutting /fitting disasters, no angering the Muslin Gods, it was pure luck.

I used Marji's "How to line a sheath dress" tutorial that I found on Pattern Review and that saved my life. The pattern required facings and I would wrestle with a lining insertion, before a facing any day. Facings never sit right, they are not my friend. Her tutorial was very simple but made perfect sense. Why the heck couldn't I have figured it out? Because, as Marji said, the big 4 have you inserting the lining with hand stitching, and her method was clean and clear. To think I followed the directions all those years, never again. Thank you to Marji, I know she is sailing somewhere right now, I wish her smooth waters.

McCalls 3395 1962 I think. Printed at least 2 dozen years before I was born. :)

Bill Blass Black daisy cotton brocade. This is a closeup of this very pretty fabric.

This is the end result. It fits well, and mine is about 6 inches shorter then the original version.

Frankly, I am a little sick of black fabric right now, so I have to go through the stash and find some other treasures , I know that are hiding......

Happy Weekend to All!

Spring???

2010-05-11T19:52:00.000-07:00

Spring Skirts

I have been interviewing my stash for possible spring skirt contenders, and this silver/chocolate Carolina Herrera purchased a year ago from emmaonesock won. I cannot look at any new fabric until I make a dent in the stash. Right.

It is a silver metallic brocade with a light chocolate around the flower edges. Crisp and no drape. I wanted a tulip skirt with a wide waistband and drafted a muslin to begin with. Two pleats on each side front and a side zipper. I did line it with a bemberg, the same color as the flower outline.

I wanted to photograph the entire outfit with shoes and white blouse , but it is 44 degrees here today and I had my magenta colored uggs on when this picture was taken.

Not the look you need/want to see with CH fabric!!

Quick Knits

2010-05-03T17:25:00.000-07:00

Two posts in one week. Yep, I haven't vacuumed the house in days..........

I was inspired by Adriana and her stripe dolman sleeve T, and I had some stripe fabric in my stash. Rather than a regular T, I went to KwikSew 2965 for the dolman sleeve and- ta da!!!!!!!! I LOVE KwikSew for the very essential basics. I have never been disappointed in both fit, instructions and variety of basic patterns.

This pattern below, is also a favorite- Vogue 8138 made up in a cognac colored rayon jersey. This pattern is soooo easy and washes like a dream. I have abused this pattern in metallic jersey, rayon jersey, you name it. Scrunch it up into a ball, throw it in the dryer-and it looks somewhat classy on.

This is for a friend who is recovering from surgery and does not sew. She thinks sewing a knit, is as complicated as sewing a Chanel, so she will be thrilled to receive this early birthday/get well gift. If you don't own a coverlock machine and can find a good deal, you MUST consider investing in one. It makes a knit look RTW.

Carolyn mentioned 16 weeks until fall sewing, so I know I want to come up with a realistic goal of what I want to accomplish the next few months and what is simply "dreaming". I will think about this for a few days and formulate a plan....and then deviate.

Thank you for all your cute comments on my lack of productivity. Seems I am not alone........

Another LBD

2010-05-01T17:09:00.000-07:00

I seem to be posting on average one item per month. How pathetic am I. A lot going on in Career Land, Health Land, Family Land. What a pitiful excuse when I see posts that are wonderful, entire wardrobe pieces. Enough of my whining and onto to another of my perennial favorites-the black dress!

This is for D1. She needed a new black go-to and we needed to try to find black with a twist. Of course my stash had a black cotton lycra with a diagonal double stripe.

How many ways can you find/wear black fabric? Let me count them, and chances are, I already have it in my stash. You never know when a blizzard/social event hits and you need emergency black fabric. I got it covered.

The pattern is an old McCalls 5800 which might be out of print. I lined the bodice with the same fabric, added a smaller zipper by 2 inches, and a tie that can be removed in case she wants to wear her 3 inch studded black Carrie Bradshaw belt. The fabric has a neat diagonal stripe and enough lycra to give it some stretch.

Now I am back to the sewing room and will try to post bimonthly. I really am not happy with my lack of productivity lately........shame on me.

Lotsa Bow

2010-04-02T11:26:00.000-07:00

Burdastyle 4/2010/111 Skirt

Cotton sateen in gunmetal gray from EOS. This is seriously the most wonderful sateen I have ever worked with. It has the drape of charmeuse with the weight of sateen. Not stiff at all.
The pattern suggests if your fabric does not have 2 good sides, then the tie band should be faced. I did what I was told and I got lotsa bow. See picture below.
Great pattern, really sweet pleats, and I imagine this would look great with a basic white blouse or even black.
This was a Burda tall style. Um. I am not even an average size, so I had to adjust length considerably to maintain the tulip look.
I love it.
If I am going to have any detail at the stomach area, better a bow than my love handles.
:)

Whoa. Lotsa Bow.

Happy Easter All!

Liberty 2010

2010-03-30T13:14:00.000-07:00

I have been interested in working with an authentic Liberty print for some time. I ordered this fabric from EOS and if you have not worked with a Liberty print

( and I am assuming most good quality lawn) it was like working with butter. Drape, fluid, beautiful fabric.

Now, for the print.

This is my first and last Liberty for this season. I love black, and this fabric really was out of the box, but a little bit of it goes a lonnngggg way. A straight skirt might have suited the print better, but I really want to wear it with my friend Black, and very casual and to heck with it, a little swing for the spring....ha ha.

I used a basic pattern block, gathered skirt, above the knee, lined with bemberg. I have some fabric left over and offered it to my girls, which based on one reaction........"would look great as a vintage tea pot". Oh well. I like it.

Greetings

2010-03-15T18:37:00.000-07:00

Readers,

I just reread my last blog post, and noticed I took the month of January off . A quick calculation, and I see I also took the month of February off as well. Yikes, I had a bad case no sewing mojo. Well I did sew some knits but nothing post worthy. Has anyone out there contracted this same condition? Well I am back, ideas and fabric to match, and some time reorganization to make some sewing a possibility.

I love jackets. BWOF 11/2007/113

Longer look and angled princessy type seam lines, one button.

Of course I had to make it in black. A lightweight novelty brocade wool suiting from EOS. A perfect fabric if you want the weight of linen, but can't stand the crinkle factor of linen. That's me. Looks like tiny ribbon pieces from the fabric. It is actually quite cute fabric. The button is attached with a pin temporarily, and the angled lines are displayed clearly in the only photo I have right now.

Thank you for all your kind words about my trenchcoat below. I received Honorary Mention and a gift card for.......MORE FABRIC. I could not have been more excited. I am entering this contest again next year. It is great incentive to sew "on your very best behavior....."

Happy Spring Everyone!!! Liberty, linen, silk matka, and silk/cotton....yeh!!!!

Back to Business

2010-01-27T12:22:00.000-08:00

Readers,

I took the month of January off from blogging. Well, I did sneak a little peek at blogs.....I did some sewing and finally finished my entry for The Jacket Challenge due by February 5th here in Saint Paul, at the local independent fabric store. My understanding is the same contest is held at several locations throughout the country.

BWOF 2-2008 -117 The Famous Runway Trenchcoat.

Let me start with the 2 most important lessons learned:

1. If you have not taken a class with a professional-DO SO. This exposure has encouraged me to take risks AND has given me excellent insights.

2. If you have never entered a contest- DO SO. This was my 3rd garment in the last 2 weeks that I finally thought was "perfect' enough to qualify. A contest raises the bar, and your expectations of your sewing mysteriously elevate from "good enough" to "it has to be perfect, I need to really behave with this one".......

Fabric Silk Dupioni in Midnight. It is darker than navy and although I do not wear navy-this color hypnotized me in the store. It is even more lovely in real life. I could become a navy convert.

Size 19p. The style is for petites-yay!

Construction

BWOF said -No lining -I struggled with this idea and religiously viewed all pattern reviews of this trench. I finally let go, when most of them did not have lining and the trench looked fine.

I finished the seams with a "clean seam finish". Turn down the seams and sew. I did not want ANY bulk at the seams or any lining to conflict with the application of the waist ruching.

10 rows of topstitching on the cuffs and although the pattern required 20 at the hem,I stopped at 16. I am 5 foot 2 1/2, all I was starting to see was top stitching.......

Clean seam finish where the cuff and sleeve meet.

Only 6 rows of ruching- 8 rows had me ruched right up to the bust point-not a good look for me. Or anyone I would think. The ruching was very easy-directions really made sense.

The cuffs and hem are constructed with a layer of batting between the facing and the fabric. It gives both the hem and the cuffs lovely definition. Hard on the sewing needles. Have plenty on hand.

I did not add top stitching to the collar and lapels even though I really like the look and had intended to do it originally. It was a lot of top stitching on my frame, and I was happy to make changes as I went along.

I only added 4 snaps at the waist, I won't be buttoning this one up to the neck.

Conclusion

Everything they say about this pattern is true. It looks great, the construction details made sense and it is lovely. Check ruching location, it really had some placement issues, for me anyway.

Make a muslin ladies. You know the drill. Just for the fit-not for the topstitching.

THANK YOU to all who reviewed it before I started. I really did rely on their expert advice and journey. At one point I was over my computer with a magnifying glass trying to check all intricate details of pictures of the trench on Pattern Review.

I LOVE IT. I will complete a last look over and then drop it off to the contest before the 5th!

Quiet New Year's Eve

2010-01-01T13:53:00.000-08:00

It was a quiet New Year's Eve and I was waiting for all family to return after midnight, so.... I pulled out my BWOF 1-2008-127 pattern, took out the Armani wool angora "curly lamb" and cut out the pattern, lining and interfacing. I have made this pattern before so it was easy to remember. I made design changes but that was okay.

I drank tea the entire time I worked. Honest I did.

Fabric: Armani wool angora "curly lamb"-what is that??? Thick, warm and plenty of drape.

Black ambiance lining. I wanted no surprises but basic black. I didn't want my curly lamb to have a Pucci pastel charmeuse tummy.

Design changes: No pockets, no back band. I did interface the front and side fronts with a pro weft interfacing from Pam Erny-this gave some structure to a jacket which really was designed for a matelasse. I did not want boxy, but structured with princess seams and warm. I did apply cuffs which were included in the pattern.

I had no button on hand, and I was racing to beat the clock at midnight. I remembered the antique brooch pin (missing a stone) that was in need of a thick fabric to anchor it. This is perfect. I won't be buying a button. Wish I could find a new stone for it. That will drive me crazy even though you can't see it, I will be thinking about it every time I wear it.

Quit obsessing......

Close up of the cuff and the brooch pin.

See the missing stone??? (It's going to drive me mental.........)

Conclusion: Looks nothing like the pattern. But it is the look I wanted. I wore this to lunch today and it is too warm to wear indoors for any period of time. Too cute to cover up with a winter coat, so it will be perfect for when winter has a few sunny days and temperatures reach into the 20's. Virtually heatwave weather here in Minnesota.

Happy 2010 All! I am taking a break from sewing and blogging for a few weeks. I don't typically sew 3 jackets in one week, and now I need some recovery, to spend some time with my family who I have neglected during the course of this jacket frenzy, and pay attention to a house that looks like the cleaner was fired months ago...........

Last Jacket for 2009

2009-12-31T08:35:00.001-08:00

BWOF 9-2009-103 Jacket

Fabric: Cranberry/Lacquer Red wool cashmere from my local independent store Treadle Yard Goods, that is sponsoring The Jacket Challenge. Entries due by February 5th. All 4 prizes include more fabric. Of course I had to enter. I need more fabric.

The buttons are pinned on. Hence the wonky look. I am determined to post this as an "almost work in progress". Almost done in my world. But you can get the general idea.

Design: For my D1 who is a size 34. I needed to grade down and I need to steam some more I see. She plans to wear this with jeans and black riding boots. She chose the fabric and buttons.

I am proud of this collar stand. I had no clue what a collar stand was until my re entry into the sewing world this year. I thought they were optional scraps of pattern pieces, to be thrown away with the other pieces called "facings".

In conclusion, a great jacket pattern. I may or may not enter this. I have one more jacket/coat to work on and I will choose the best by February 5th. Yikes. I go back to work next week. Who am I kidding?

Year in Review

I am not going to count how many yards sewn, items discarded, items that were learning devices and items that made me smile and think, dang I am smart.....
My re entry into the sewing world occurred when I stumbled upon LindsayT's website. There was a whole new world of gals my vintage and fabulousity (as Ann Steeves would say) that were either heading back into sewing or starting. It was then that I determined to head back in. Running races is fun, but at my age you never really improve- sewing you can improve and improve and improve..........

Looking Ahead 2010 Sewing Goals

A Marfy, organza lining , doublecloth fabrics, welt pockets, stripes and plaids, tailoring techniques, another class or several , continue to improve, continue to encourage my D1 to keep sewing.......she is very talented.......I know you are reading this Alexandra Rose.....

Thank you to all my sewing ladies. The support and learning has made my sewing soul sing. All the best in 2010.

JoanneM

No Brainer

2009-12-28T13:07:00.001-08:00

BWOF 9-2009-127 Jacket

Please excuse my crude title-but this jacket-like all BWOF jackets I have tried, is another no brainer. I LOVE their jackets. They fit straight out of the gate, and once you are accustomed to the goofy directions-you can apply that acquired knowledge to the next jacket. This was no exception. This is probably my favorite item of the year, jockeying for first position with my guipure skirt. Anyhow here is the info:

Pattern Review: I did not read the directions. I cut out the pieces, looked at the parts, did a quick assembly in my brain and went from there. Trust was established from the get go. This is a BWOF jacket and I love them and they love me......mostly.

Fabric: I love black, so any interpretation of this color in any texture is a winner. This is a French wool mohair boucle from emmaonesock purchased in the early fall. The lining is from Thai Silks. I even think it said neon pink, and I was looking for bubblegum. But I thought I was smarter than the fabric name, and thought there is no way, a silk charmeuse could be neon. Such arrogance was rewarded with the arrival of neon pink fabric. Oh well. Pink in any form is my second favorite color.

Changes: This fabric was THICK. I knew that and when I sewed the collar on complete with the undercollar and interfacing, it looked like a round bubble around my neck. I steamed the heck out of this thatched thick boucle and the collar was still a bubble. So I did sew around the collar to tame the puffy look. It worked.

Retrospective: I love it. It fits well and it is warm. This fabric was a charm to assemble, but was scraggy and lumpy, ends hanging out and a little scruffy. My sewing room looks like a black dog kennel, but it did clean up well. I do think this style would work in a thick fabric or even a suiting if need be. Maybe a linen?

The lining-trust me-it is is way brighter in real life..........

Next project..........yep....another BWOF jacket!

Thank You

2009-12-21T18:20:00.000-08:00

A sincere thank you for all your wonderful comments about the Chanel. The learning was very necessary!

Next up is BWOF 9-2009-127, a double breasted short jacket coat in a black french wool mohair boucle with neon pink silk charmeuse lining. It looked bubblegum pink online, it arrived as brilliant neon. Yikes-it's bright-but cheerful.

Merry Christmas to all and a safe and happy New Year. All my children are home-the high schooler and the middle schooler, except one college student who sits for a final tomorrow evening here in town, and the other college student who is driving across the mid west tomorrow-before the predicted blizzard, I hope. I can breathe once he puts his dirty wash in the laundry room, and nukes his bedroom floor with his possessions.

Ahhh, the spirit of the season......it's all good.........

Chanel

2009-12-17T08:28:00.000-08:00

The Chanel Knock Off

What did I learn?

This fabric, silk/linen/cotton- not so good for a Chanel. This fabric has the structure of a cloth diaper. This jacket could be wadded up into a small ball if so desired. And it just might. So, it does resemble an earlier Chanel that is more sweater weight than a structured jacket.
My next, true Chanel (months from now) will not have plaids. These were aligned perfectly and once the quilted lining was installed, this jacket shrank, moved, and shifted like you would not believe.
I think this fabric stretched. How can that be?
The quilted lining was a good experience. Laborious, but invaluable.
Trim disaster. I ran out of trim for the bottom of the jacket. Why is it that I can buy enough toilet paper to last my household until Y3K, but neglect to purchase an extra yard of trim, now sold out? So we picked a similar match and if you don't look too close.........

Highlights

The faux Chanel CC gold buttons D1 insisted on. They do look kinda official. Purchased from MandJTrimming NYC.
She loves it. Whisked away to college before I had the chance to take decent pictures.
I recall Birgitte from Bubblegum for Breakfast referring to her Chanel as a "ragamuffin". Amen sister. I get it.
Overall-I enjoyed the experience. It does not meet my sanity standards, but for a first run, it was a great education, and I have one happy customer...........

Vintage Vogue Cape Stole 5463

2009-11-26T09:38:00.000-08:00

I have been inspired by the many faux fur jackets recently, and knew I wanted one that would be easy to throw on and versatile enough to dress up or down. I have looked for some time and found this pattern on ebay. Other bidders wanted it also, so I am having to justify this pattern by telling myself I will be able to use it again...and again.......ahhh justifications......

I really liked the back as it has some structure with the band giving it more form than a simple "throw".

I envisioned the black cape stole below. How this stole could tie with thick faux fur and lining and no extra length to tie, as the pattern would have you believe, must have been a little white lie Vogue sanctioned in 1960.

I ended up with this look. No option to tie, but that is okay. I love it.

Cape stole front worn with my weekend uniform-jeans.
Faux fur fabric from Ginnys in Rochester MN. If you ever need to visit the The Mayo Clinic, this fabric store is across the street and is OUTSTANDING. She has been there for 30 years and has lovely fabrics.....

Cape stole with the casual "I'm gonna walk with my hands in my pockets look".

Betsey Johnson silk charmeuse animal print lining from emmaonesock purchased several months ago.

Labels from etsy. I am going to start to make sure my garments are "label worthy".

I loved this pattern. I love vintage patterns. This format was bullet point and a diagram. So easy to assemble and follow. Cute to wear. I hope to make the longer version probably, in the year 2019-that is the next opening in my schedule :).

Happy Thanksgiving to All. I am thankful for so much in my life. Have a wonderful day.

Chanel Deadline

2009-11-10T17:46:00.000-08:00

I am not going to make the Chanel deadline-but I don't think that is a problem. I am learning a lot and know what I am going to do differently when I make my own jacket-next year.

Thread tracing- I hand sewed each seam line with bright red thread. The entire time I kept wondering why this could not have been accomplished with chalk. If you know the couture reason, please let me know. I am sure it has something to do with perfection and quality..............

Quilted Lining-the next time I will be exact with my pins and inches. Thank goodness for the quilting foot. This fabric is bumpy and shifts like quicksand.

I am enjoying the process. D1 is very excited. I will be more meticulous with the next Chanel.....

Late to the Chanel Party

2009-10-25T16:01:00.000-07:00

I am very late to the Chanel Party.

I originally signed up, submitted inspirational pictures and posted fabrics, and then went into hiding.That was my last Chanel post. I officially and unofficially withdrew. I lurked on the site, posted nothing, found courage and I'm back with a slightly different approach. I am concrete random at best. Always a plan. I just change it as I see fit.......So here is the final approach-I will see it through to completion.

Chanel jacket will be for D1. She is thrilled. Her requests were: furry trim,tight fitting, pockets,and gold buttons for sleeve vents.

A merging of 2 patterns. A Vintage 1961 Advance pattern, for the excellent sleeve vents and Chanel like qualities. Vogue 7975 for the basic shell. I will merge sleeves from Advance with Vogue shell .

Inspiration picture: Linda Evangelists in BWOF 9/2009 with her Chanel jacket
Fabric: Cotton/Linen boucle from emmaonesock with lurex strips throughout. Do these match or what???? I actually had this fabric in my stash.........uncanny resemblence.
Trims: one sided black furry from MandJ Trimming
Two edged furry trim with a skinny trim on top from M and J Trimming

Are "furry" and "skinny" couture adjectives? If so, I am using them like I know what I am talking about.
Chanel Literature: I will rely on these three books and countless bloggers before me.
Muslins to date: muslin front. Sleeve is very long and wide, shoulder needs some adjustment. Waist and bust look good.
Muslin Back: Big in the shoulder, arm, some work to do. General idea on track.
Next: Adjust muslin, and then cut out fabric and lining, and thread trace..... D1 won't be home from college for a couple of weeks so this will be a slow process.....

RUINED

2009-10-19T18:45:00.000-07:00

Burda World of Fashion 1/2009/114

And if you believe in happy endings do not read any further.

This was *going* to be my birthday jacket. Wool cashmere in black. Pucci print charmeuse lining in periwinkle and black. I am consistent with my love affairs with jackets and black.

Death by scorching. I literally scorched the heck out of the front seam. What was I bloody well thinking??? Some heat is good, so therefore I should apply more heat???? Don't get to close. It's like looking at a car wreck when you tell your children to close their eyes as you pass a mangle on the side of the road, and while they do as they are told, your eyes are totally looking.

.
The good seam on the other side. Or-what might have been.

Fabric is no longer available to purchase. No salvage here. I love/loved this fabric. It was so soft and furry and warm and black.

After 24-48 hours of grieving , and kicking myself, I am going to cut out something in wool, in teal or burnt (not as in scorched) lavender.

Right now, I have to exit the sewing studio.....

Faux without the Furry

2009-10-11T13:53:00.000-07:00

Burda World of Fashion 11/2007/114

I really want a faux fur jacket like everyone else, but I am not allowed to buy any fabric until I use some of the fabric I have in my stash. This self imposed restriction could last......until the next "must have" fabric comes my way.....

BWOF 11/2007/104-this edition has some wonderful jackets. This is a double breasted retro jacket with 3/4 length sleeves.

Fabric -Ralph Lauren leopard print 100% wool coating purchased from emmaonesock last spring. It is soft but not furry. But I can still pat it. :)

Construction- Typical BWOF directions-I really like their jackets and construction details. Once you get accustomed to the lack of visuals, you can master it. This jacket was boxy, I had trouble staying with the pattern directions. I like fitted, so I had to keep reminding myself to keep it boxy and slightly over sized. It went together with ease and just in time for the cool weather. I added bright yellow bemberg lining for kicks and giggles.

Conclusion- Not having owned an animal print jacket before, it really is a lot of animal print rather than an accessory, such as a scarf. I like it. I am fond of all leopard, cheetah, zebra, giraffe prints, but I am going to stop right here. I promise. D2 wants to be Wonderwoman for Halloween so my next project will involve red,white and blue spandex and a lot of glitter.......

THANK YOU to Trudy for the Kreativ Blogger Award. You are too kind.

Temperamental Sewing

2009-09-27T16:28:00.001-07:00

I enjoyed Lindsay T's post about sewing with knits. Well I didn't enjoy seeing you suffer LindsayT, I just kept nodding my head and smiling with you!

I endure a love/hate relationship sewing with knits and every time I think I have learned my lesson, I go back into the ring for another round. Knits can be so lovely these days and the instant gratification is addictive. I also lean on them when I need a diversion from whatever big project I am working on and need a quick fix.

D1 was home from college this weekend and when I asked her what she thought of the gunmetal metallic jersey I purchased from Kashi at Metro Textile in NYC, and what I thought it would look like if made up, her eyes lit up and I knew I had my perfect excuse to not clean the kitchen floor and avoid cutting out my next wool project.

I have used/abused this pattern at least 6 times. Vogue 8138. Wrap and tank. I made both in less than 2 hours and she wore them that night. Serger, coverlock and fabric all cooperated so the planets were aligned.

When you are a size 0 you can wrap this puppy around you numerous times.
Or you can let it hang, and if you are wearing heels, as she tells me, who cares how long it is. Well, now was not the time to tell her to be careful when she enters and exits an elevator.

Youth trumps all.

Finally

2009-09-27T16:07:00.000-07:00

FINALLY-The Anne Klein Riding Jacket. Four muslins under the guidance of Kenneth King.

On Matilda
This is how it will be worn-with ratty old jeans (these were the good pair)
I like short sleeves with my jackets-in between bracelet and wrist length.
The side view after you sit down in it. The peplum needs to be rearranged but who in real life is going to excuse themselves from the restaurant table to go to the ladies room to adjust their peplum? Not I. Let it fall where it does.

Conclusion: Lovely charcoal wool, four muslins and the great learning curve that goes with it, tricky adjustments, and a unique jacket. Every time I wear it I will be reminded of NYC sit and sew and treasured times I spent with other sewists. Worth every bloody muslin.................

My New Toy

2009-09-26T17:08:00.000-07:00

I have been absent from blogging for some time......and it isn't because of extreme sewing-I wish. Work has been very busy, arranging to visit one college child hours away and one here in town, two children in different high school sports where both schedule events on the same dates and times-and then I need to make appearances at both....you know....life.

Anyway, Anne Klein riding jacket is finished. It was a huge struggle at the end....many lining puckers and I am still not 100% satisfied. But the overall fit is fine,great fabric and an unusual

style. I will post pictures tomorrow.

My basic rationale for my new toy Consew ES 300 Gravity Feed Iron went like this:

I can't get my lining to sit properly
I am making several jackets this winter,I could use a really good steam iron
I really want to bring my iron from the laundry into my sewing room so I am not running up and down stairs every time I need to press a facing
I don't smoke, I don't drink (I stop at 2,or was that 3)
I have been very well behaved as of late, so then I must deserve it.

So after some research, (thank you Ann) I ordered, it arrived in 3 days, Mr Muslin hooked up the IV drip look- a- like to a white hanging plant stand, I purchased distilled water, and then off to decipher the very easy instructions.

It works like a dream. Highly recommended and the price was around $120. I am not sure I will ever use a "regular" iron again. Love it.

Riding Jacket Almost Completed !!!!!

2009-09-07T17:40:00.000-07:00

I am almost out of steam with this project that I started in NYC Sit and Sew Class. Four valuable muslins later,I am almost done. I knew if I posted this incomplete project I would be compelled to finish up quickly. I emphasize valuable, as it was with Kenneth King's expertise I was able to understand that some patterns are: 1. totally way off base with sizing 2. vintage patterns, even those from the 80's require much shoulder adaptation to bring it into the year 2009 3. a muslin is forever a must, when you want your hard work to look decent. It fits well and I will post next week,the final garment.

The fabric is a medium weight wool flannel suiting,not bulky and not office wear. Perfect for how I hope to wear it. I was neurotic about the welt pockets and everything I researched did not look like the Vogue directions for the welt. I followed the Vogue directions and after further research ,it turns out the Vogue directions are for a double piped welt pocket only they just didn't tell you.....and I thought there was only 1 type of welt pocket in the world. Silly me. The learning never ends.

Not ironed,with lining unfinished, garment in some disarray, welts temporarily sealed,but here is the general idea on Matilda. This fabric was a dream to work with.
The back shot, not ironed,threads hanging all over.
A peek at the paisley silk charmeuse lining.

Now I will get busy and finish this week. But for now,I am going to take a little rest.......

I forgot......

2009-09-01T16:52:00.000-07:00

I forgot to add.....couture sewing sometimes requires a brief nap. I would highly recommend it if you don't want to accidentally baste your thumb to your guipure.......

NYC Sit and Sew!

2009-09-01T14:20:00.001-07:00

I just spent 4 days in NYC under the tutelage of Susan Kahlje and Kenneth King. Susan is renowned for couture techniques and Kenneth for his tailoring,embellishments,pattern making and creative techniques. Both are entertaining,knowledgeable and outstanding professionals. I wanted to take 2 projects with me ,that utilized their strengths and areas of skill-a riding jacket and a lace guipure skirt. I went with the clear understanding and open mind that no project would be complete but the learning could assist my skills when I returned home.

Lace Guipure Skirt-(I even know how to pronounce it now)
*4 layers
* guipure on top of silk charmeuse,on top of a lightweight muslin for body,on top of silk crepe de chine,the lining. As Susan said-not heavy but sturdy. She was absolutely right.
* skirt has no seams except for the CB
*darts are only in the 3 underlayers
* where the dart should be in the lace-is where you cut into the lace and gently overlap it and sew by hand to remove excess fabric
* baste and baste and baste by hand until you think you can never baste again,and then you will need to baste again. And make sure you smile. No whining.
* Hand sew the zipper-I only had an invisible zipper,(it needs a regular zipper) with me and no stores were open,so I held the skirt together with my hands for the picture,regular zipper to be installed at home. Can I tell you I love hand sewn zippers? So much control and it is peaceful.....

Anne Klein Riding Jacket
No picture to show-but 4 muslins later-I now have a perfect fit jacket. Those 80's jackets have shoulders like wings. At first It looked like Alexis from Dynasty,then a football player,then finally it settled into a 2009 version,minus the shoulders and my goal of no shoulder pads will be realized. Why 4? Each step of the process taught me how to slope (net gain and net loss) the extra fabric to position it to fit properly.

A wonderful directed study as Ann suggested,wonderful company,excellent leadership. In short,I had a blast. Too tired to run around at night after class, (oh I lie,what happened in NYC,stays in NYC) but thrilled with all we were able to do.

Yes-I LOVE my skirt-it fits like a glove and my jacket muslin looks wonderful!!!!
A parting shot of Kenneth in his Gorilla jacket........don't ask.........

NYC Sewing !!!

2009-08-23T16:32:00.000-07:00

I am truly fortunate to be going to NYC at the end of this week and taking a sewing class. I have experienced some guilt about leaving my family, especially during this crazy time of the year,and have suitably over compensated by buying groceries for an entire year(I will be gone 5 days) packed one college son as if he were a 5 year old and cannot tie his shoes,purchased back to school supplies and clothing to outfit my children until winter break and organized every car pool imaginable to ease the burden of my departure. Secretly I can't wait to get the heck outta here and spend some very quality time with me me me. But I will continue my guilty mother dance until that plane leaves the tarmac.

I have 2 projects I would like to start. I won't complete either, but hope to rotate from one to the other as frustration sets in with one,then I can move to the other. If I get a good head start I should be able to complete these tasks after I return home(after I clean up whatever debris awaits me)

Project #1

Burda World of Fashion-2-2009-128 Lace Guipure Skirt

The guipure lace and silk charmeuse under it is a silver gray. I am then to place a lightweight muslin and then a silk crepe de chine as the lining. Sturdy and not heavy. This is what the instructor has advised for class and I am following the directions!

Project #2

Vogue Anne Klein Designer Jacket (Circa 1987)

This is a traditional riding jacket with what almost seems like a bustle (anyone have a better explanation?) at the back,an ebay win. It has welt pockets, one button and is really interesting. My understanding is that Vogue has something very similar(without the bustle) in their Fall 2009 patterns. Um. I don't ride horses, am plain scared of them, but like the look of wearing this jacket with jeans on the weekend.
I used the French method as outlined in the class directions and I am hooked. This muslin is not ironed,but the general idea is there. Hello carbon paper and tracing wheel where have I been?
This is the fabric-a light/medium weight charcoal flannel suiting.

This is the lining,hot pinks and gold paisley silk charmeuse.

I am SO excited to learn so much in this class,I will be all ears and will take notes like the goody adult learner that I am.

I also want to thank my blog visitors for the many encouraging comments when posting a garment. Long over due on my behalf. Thank you!

BWOF 5-2009-122 and a Confession

2009-08-11T11:27:00.001-07:00

BWOF-5-2009-122 Dress

Let me start with a confession and an apology.

1. I said no more summer items but this one kept calling my name when the washed silk went 50 % off.

2. Not another black dress. I know. I'm sorry. Black was all the store had left and the sale was great,and black is usually a good friend.

3. I am avoiding making a Chanel and a NYC muslin. But after this post I will be be suitably nervous,so I will get going.

The Dress

Fabric Used: Washed silk just as the pattern recommended. It was easy to cut,didn't wrinkle,the sueded texture gave the balloon sleeves drape and stability. This was my first smart move to follow the fabric suggestion.

Details: These were great BWOF directions,but the pattern did require 52 pleats in all,and that was the time killer. I was nervous the pattern did not require lining-even the bodice. Once I had the bodice assembled,pleated and attached to the skirt,it really did not need lining. The fabric was "heavy" enough to have drape,lacked transparency and did not need it. It has been a while since I have used washed silk,it really is lovely without being "slinky" which is what I sometimes think silk is.

Conclusion: It is a dress that can go from casual to dressy. The pleats do make it look very RTW and the tie belt anchors the more casual look. I would recommend the washed silk and I would check the neck before you cut,I wish I had ,I would have raised the v an inch or two. Sizing was consistent,it can be a little more forgiving because of the tie waist.

A pleasant distraction,but now I REALLY need to maintain focus and get going on my real projects.......................

Shipwreck and Rescue

2009-08-08T16:25:00.000-07:00

I was inspired by Cindy's simple black Cynthia Rowley dress that she applied lime green piping around the novelty yoke. She did a darling job and I knew I could add sleeves. Because I am not making any more summer clothing,( as per my new rules for August),I thought a good in between pattern would be okay.

Simplicity 2584 Cynthia Rowley Dress or Tunic

Fabric: Italian cotton twill with a stripe and some lycra from emmaonesock.

Shipwreck: The pattern was straight forward and it was short with a rectangular look. The novelty yoke was very cute, but on me- the short tunic was straight,very black,very box shaped (and I am short) and made me look like a....a....groovy nun. Don't get me wrong,I was educated by nuns and I love them,but this was not the look for me. Maybe piping would fix it. Maybe I should taper it. Maybe I will sell it at the garage sale next weekend. Maybe.....okay,this will have to be a wadder. Great fabric,gone to waste....

Rescue: D1 comes into sewing room after she hears my conservative expletives and observes the dress closely ."Could I have it? I mean if it is Cynthia Rowley,you could cut it real short,add the sleeves,taper it through the middle,and I could wear it with boots. Goes in the washing machine-right mom?"(imperative factor for a college student).

Done. An hour of changes,and she is happy she has another free dress ,and I did not waste any fabric.

Dress cut at tunic level,short, but she can wear it,not I.
A close up of the novelty yoke that really is very sweet.
Now,no more diversions. I have to get to work on a Chanel muslin.......

Fall 2009 Vogue 8592

2009-08-02T17:39:00.001-07:00

Vogue Very Easy Dress 8592

Hancock Fabrics had Vogue patterns for $3.99 this weekend and I always need a quick black dress,this is from fall 2009. I used a black doubleknit from my stash and followed design A. I prefer the beefy doubleknit and not a slinky matte jersey. First fitting was huge at the sides and made me look like I was with child.....oh dear. I tapered the sides by an inch and a half and reduced the elastic around the neck by 8 inches. I bought the hem up by an extra 3 inches and bought the sleeves in by 1 inch. Yes-I did follow the correct size-I just needed additional alterations!

Yes,I do like it. Despite the many changes,it is a good pattern. It will be sweet with flats and as soon as the weather gets cool,a scarf at the neck and flat boots will be cute. I won't make it again-it could be the dress that starts a rumor........

What to do with the hands?

" Mr Muslin (who is taking the picture) does this dress make me look chubby?"

Little Pink Dress

2009-07-31T10:23:00.000-07:00

This dress pattern is darling. I found it on ebay in excess of $50! I did not bid and when strolling through Etsy the next day,I grabbed it for less than $10. The directions and illustrations were direct and clear,the peg skirt cut on the bias is super cute.

I wanted to wear it as a sundress so I chose a hot pink 100% linen (it might be neon,it's pretty bright ,I hope it doesn't give anyone a seizure)lined the bodice in a bemberg and omitted the petticoat they suggested. I am going to wear it rumpled just as it is on Matilda,crumpled and casual. I love the huge rose,I am partial to a good embellishment. :)

I like these vintage patterns,this being my second. A muslin is necessary,the fit can be a little peculiar-larger bust size than it says,skinny waists and long bodices-but after a muslin it can work well.

I wanted to complete my last summer item by July 31st. I have so many great fall projects to start (Vogue patterns $3.99 at Hancock this weekend, I stocked up on the new fall patterns!),a sewing class in late August,back to work in several weeks, and alterations/ sewing wish lists for my D1 and S1 before they go back to college,oh and a Chanel sewalong. So this is it for summer 2009!

Little Black Dress

2009-07-24T05:20:00.000-07:00

I have been curious about all the vintage patterns I have seen made up on various blogs so I decided to take a little visit to ebay and various vintage web sites. Wow. Late 1950's and 1960's are very appealing and do have a timeless quality. These patterns are typically small (who has a 31 1/2 inch bust?) and very glamorous. It was lot of fun to look through the archives and I can see why it is so addictive! Thanks Cindy!!!!

I was successful with a bid on Vogue 5767 evening dress and capelet. I don't have any reason to make an evening dress but I knew it would look great in a summer dress form. The beauty of many of these patterns are that they are already cut. Yes I like a good shortcut.

I chose an Italian black graphic matelasse cotton/poly from emmaonesock and it was a perfect fabric for a semi casual/ not evening look! It had body and really kept a firm shape,which is what I wanted.I also wanted black fabric but something with a twist-this fabric delivered on all counts! I deviated from the pattern and wanted a looser top so that I could cinch it at the waist to create a waist, as mine needs a lot of help......it is gradually becoming very rectangular....so this fabric and pattern worked magic with this illusion! Lined in a black bemberg both bodice and skirt I don't think this skirt needs a "petticoat" as required in the pattern. I worked in a bigger bow on the belt (love a good embellishment) and the hem length right now is undecided. The pattern directions were clear,concise and brief-bravo! A muslin is a definite for the bodice-these 1960's gals had teeny waists, no busts and delicate shoulders.....true? I also do not have the LBD on Matilda my dress form as I altered the zipper and went to a 16 inch and I can barely get it over my head let alone a dress form. I will need to change that out if I want to go out to eat in my new LBD. I LOVE the pattern. I am going to make it again,following the pattern more closely next time, with more fitted bodice and omit the bow. This was fun!

2009-07-16T13:41:00.000-07:00

A Good Ruffle

When I find a good TNT pattern I have been known to abuse it.......these three skirts are the result of fusing a good TNT pattern,a little ruffle,more ruffle and then over done ruffle. I wear a lot of skirts to work and those months where the black wardrobe has been exhausted,I really try to use color and some embellishment,but this time I went a little overboard. I wear them with a white shirt and rolled up sleeves so they are a lot of fun. But-I am retiring this look,in other words I am all ruffled out!

Gray Linen Skirt (I think I might add a ruffle)

Yellow Home Decorating Fabric Skirt (let's add another ruffle while we are at this)

Bubblegum Pink Skirt (mmm let's go crazy here)

BWOF 11-2007-125 Vintage Cocktail Dress

2009-07-13T19:54:00.001-07:00

This is my second attempt to post this tonight and as you can tell I have a few new blogger issues. Maybe I should not have started a blog on the 13th???? Anyway-this pattern is from my favorite BWOF issue. I have several more items I hope to make from the issue that I was able to secure from ebay.

Fabric used

An Italian cotton voile from emmaonesock with a montage of pinks,purples and browns. I lined it in a cotton batiste so that the lining would float with the fabric and not add structure.

Would you recommend this pattern?

For a BWOF this was easy to follow. Sleeve vents were questionable but I think necessary for ease. The skirt was not as tulip shaped as they indicated,but that was fine. Neck was little larger than wanted but some bra strap holders were key. I think the pattern would be lovely in a silk dupioni or taffeta as well.

That's it for tonight. I am totally blogged out and exhausted. Tomorrow I need to figure out some more blog construction rules-namely how to erase mistakes so readers aren't subjected to them.......

Finally!

2009-07-13T19:21:00.000-07:00

Readers,

Finally......I have taken the plunge. Ten months agonizing over starting a blog,and now 5 minutes after I have previewed the layout, I am already thinking how I need to accessorize and re model (I need a cuter template,I want a cuter color,can I fit a more modern font in here somehow??? How about some graphics???) One day at a time.

A very little about me-I originally grew up knitting and that was my first love. A haphazard sewer at best,I thought muslins were for designers,I mean doesn't everyone fit a perfect size 8 with the big 4? After many failed projects and beautiful fabric on the cutting floor,I left sewing and kept knitting. A year ago I had curious pain in both wrists and knitting was no longer fun and there was no way I was ever going to have surgery. I stumbled across LindsayT's website one night when I was looking for a Chanel spring collection for fun,and I found myself in a world where everyone was sewing again,they even politely reviewed patterns (pattern review) and there were blogs,tutorials,advice,fabric envy and humor. That sealed it. I was going back to sew-THE RIGHT WAY. I checked websites,blogs, studied reviews,and made my first muslins.

And.... I had some success.

So THANK YOU to all who have inspired me and bear with me as I set up my new house. If I post a picture upside down,just let me know,I will remove it pronto........