Thursday, November 26, 2009

Vintage Vogue Cape Stole 5463



I have been inspired by the many faux fur jackets recently, and knew I wanted one that would be easy to throw on and versatile enough to dress up or down. I have looked for some time and found this pattern on ebay. Other bidders wanted it also, so I am having to justify this pattern by telling myself I will be able to use it again...and again.......ahhh justifications......

  • I really liked the back as it has some structure with the band giving it more form than a simple "throw".
  • I envisioned the black cape stole below. How this stole could tie with thick faux fur and lining and no extra length to tie, as the pattern would have you believe, must have been a little white lie Vogue sanctioned in 1960.
  • I ended up with this look. No option to tie, but that is okay. I love it.
  • Cape stole front worn with my weekend uniform-jeans.
  • Faux fur fabric from Ginnys in Rochester MN. If you ever need to visit the The Mayo Clinic, this fabric store is across the street and is OUTSTANDING. She has been there for 30 years and has lovely fabrics.....
  • Cape stole with the casual "I'm gonna walk with my hands in my pockets look".
  • Betsey Johnson silk charmeuse animal print lining from emmaonesock purchased several months ago.
  • Labels from etsy. I am going to start to make sure my garments are "label worthy".
  • I loved this pattern. I love vintage patterns. This format was bullet point and a diagram. So easy to assemble and follow. Cute to wear. I hope to make the longer version probably, in the year 2019-that is the next opening in my schedule :).
Happy Thanksgiving to All. I am thankful for so much in my life. Have a wonderful day.

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

Chanel Deadline

I am not going to make the Chanel deadline-but I don't think that is a problem. I am learning a lot and know what I am going to do differently when I make my own jacket-next year.
  • Thread tracing- I hand sewed each seam line with bright red thread. The entire time I kept wondering why this could not have been accomplished with chalk. If you know the couture reason, please let me know. I am sure it has something to do with perfection and quality..............



  • Quilted Lining-the next time I will be exact with my pins and inches. Thank goodness for the quilting foot. This fabric is bumpy and shifts like quicksand.
I am enjoying the process. D1 is very excited. I will be more meticulous with the next Chanel.....

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Late to the Chanel Party


I am very late to the Chanel Party.

I originally signed up, submitted inspirational pictures and posted fabrics, and then went into hiding.That was my last Chanel post. I officially and unofficially withdrew. I lurked on the site, posted nothing, found courage and I'm back with a slightly different approach. I am concrete random at best. Always a plan. I just change it as I see fit.......So here is the final approach-I will see it through to completion.
  • Chanel jacket will be for D1. She is thrilled. Her requests were: furry trim,tight fitting, pockets,and gold buttons for sleeve vents.

  • A merging of 2 patterns. A Vintage 1961 Advance pattern, for the excellent sleeve vents and Chanel like qualities. Vogue 7975 for the basic shell. I will merge sleeves from Advance with Vogue shell .




Inspiration picture: Linda Evangelists in BWOF 9/2009 with her Chanel jacket
Fabric: Cotton/Linen boucle from emmaonesock with lurex strips throughout. Do these match or what???? I actually had this fabric in my stash.........uncanny resemblence.
Trims: one sided black furry from MandJ Trimming
Two edged furry trim with a skinny trim on top from M and J Trimming
Are "furry" and "skinny" couture adjectives? If so, I am using them like I know what I am talking about.
Chanel Literature: I will rely on these three books and countless bloggers before me.
Muslins to date: muslin front. Sleeve is very long and wide, shoulder needs some adjustment. Waist and bust look good.
Muslin Back: Big in the shoulder, arm, some work to do. General idea on track.
Next: Adjust muslin, and then cut out fabric and lining, and thread trace..... D1 won't be home from college for a couple of weeks so this will be a slow process.....

Monday, October 19, 2009

RUINED

Burda World of Fashion 1/2009/114

And if you believe in happy endings do not read any further.

This was *going* to be my birthday jacket. Wool cashmere in black. Pucci print charmeuse lining in periwinkle and black. I am consistent with my love affairs with jackets and black.


Death by scorching. I literally scorched the heck out of the front seam. What was I bloody well thinking??? Some heat is good, so therefore I should apply more heat???? Don't get to close. It's like looking at a car wreck when you tell your children to close their eyes as you pass a mangle on the side of the road, and while they do as they are told, your eyes are totally looking.
.
The good seam on the other side. Or-what might have been.


Fabric is no longer available to purchase. No salvage here. I love/loved this fabric. It was so soft and furry and warm and black.

After 24-48 hours of grieving , and kicking myself, I am going to cut out something in wool, in teal or burnt (not as in scorched) lavender.

Right now, I have to exit the sewing studio.....

Sunday, October 11, 2009

Faux without the Furry

Burda World of Fashion 11/2007/114

I really want a faux fur jacket like everyone else, but I am not allowed to buy any fabric until I use some of the fabric I have in my stash. This self imposed restriction could last......until the next "must have" fabric comes my way.....
  • BWOF 11/2007/104-this edition has some wonderful jackets. This is a double breasted retro jacket with 3/4 length sleeves.

  • Fabric -Ralph Lauren leopard print 100% wool coating purchased from emmaonesock last spring. It is soft but not furry. But I can still pat it. :)

  • Construction- Typical BWOF directions-I really like their jackets and construction details. Once you get accustomed to the lack of visuals, you can master it. This jacket was boxy, I had trouble staying with the pattern directions. I like fitted, so I had to keep reminding myself to keep it boxy and slightly over sized. It went together with ease and just in time for the cool weather. I added bright yellow bemberg lining for kicks and giggles.

  • Conclusion- Not having owned an animal print jacket before, it really is a lot of animal print rather than an accessory, such as a scarf. I like it. I am fond of all leopard, cheetah, zebra, giraffe prints, but I am going to stop right here. I promise. D2 wants to be Wonderwoman for Halloween so my next project will involve red,white and blue spandex and a lot of glitter.......

THANK YOU to Trudy for the Kreativ Blogger Award. You are too kind.



Sunday, September 27, 2009

Temperamental Sewing


I enjoyed Lindsay T's post about sewing with knits. Well I didn't enjoy seeing you suffer LindsayT, I just kept nodding my head and smiling with you!

I endure a love/hate relationship sewing with knits and every time I think I have learned my lesson, I go back into the ring for another round. Knits can be so lovely these days and the instant gratification is addictive. I also lean on them when I need a diversion from whatever big project I am working on and need a quick fix.

D1 was home from college this weekend and when I asked her what she thought of the gunmetal metallic jersey I purchased from Kashi at Metro Textile in NYC, and what I thought it would look like if made up, her eyes lit up and I knew I had my perfect excuse to not clean the kitchen floor and avoid cutting out my next wool project.

I have used/abused this pattern at least 6 times. Vogue 8138. Wrap and tank. I made both in less than 2 hours and she wore them that night. Serger, coverlock and fabric all cooperated so the planets were aligned.

When you are a size 0 you can wrap this puppy around you numerous times.
Or you can let it hang, and if you are wearing heels, as she tells me, who cares how long it is. Well, now was not the time to tell her to be careful when she enters and exits an elevator.
Youth trumps all.

Finally

FINALLY-The Anne Klein Riding Jacket. Four muslins under the guidance of Kenneth King.
On Matilda
This is how it will be worn-with ratty old jeans (these were the good pair)
I like short sleeves with my jackets-in between bracelet and wrist length.
The side view after you sit down in it. The peplum needs to be rearranged but who in real life is going to excuse themselves from the restaurant table to go to the ladies room to adjust their peplum? Not I. Let it fall where it does.

Conclusion: Lovely charcoal wool, four muslins and the great learning curve that goes with it, tricky adjustments, and a unique jacket. Every time I wear it I will be reminded of NYC sit and sew and treasured times I spent with other sewists. Worth every bloody muslin.................